It’s been steadily building, but Richmond generally, and Swan Street specifically, is positively buzzing right now.

With newcomers Saint.Urban (brilliant wine-focused bistronomy from the Punch Lane crew) and Bahari (great homestyle Greek cooked by MasterChef alumus Philip Vakos) joining Union Dining (Nicky Riemer’s sophisticated take on Euro-classics gets better with each year) and the ever-busy Fonda (still rocking tacos like there’s no tomorrow) a palpable energy abounds that has created a dynamic food precinct.

Into this eat-drink mix you have Matt Bax’s concept-cool secret Bar Exuberante (hidden within the rum dive Bar Economico) and the newest shaken-stirred addition, Ugly Duckling. And what a beauty it is.

The Hecker Guthrie-designed space is understatedly glamorous, tastefully expensive, with a dimly lit slate grey and dark marble bar in the front giving way to a light-filled atrium out the back. Here blonde wood and soft pastels enlivened with living greenery is an evocation of the beach house we’d all like to summer at.

It’s all very lovely, just like the impeccably manicured facial hair of the bros tending bar and floor, where the handsome hip and pretty young slips come to sip on some rather excellent drinks, of which the two dozen cocktails are a highlight.

While we continue to haggle over its provenance with the Kiwis, the Pavlova Fizz here brooks no argument – a crisp apple lick teamed with a kiwifruit-tinged Tanqueray kick wearing a creamy egg-white crown torched to a crisp is a sweet-sharp winner – while more savoury types will likely turn to the tomato-olive-rosemary flavours of the antipasto martini. Clever and classy.

The wine list is a likewise good-looking doc, jumping from accessible local drops (Innocent Bystander pinot grigio) to celebratory international pops (vintage Louis Roederer) with deft ease; the impressive list more squarely aimed at those happy to pay for quality.

There’s no kitchen, so save a bowl of (excellent) smoked almonds, or a late-night cheese plate, you’ll have to go elsewhere for dinner. But you won’t have to go far.

Brought to life by David Abela (3 Degrees Marketing), Andrew Ryan (Mitchelton Wines, Melbourne Pub Group) and Daniel Vid (MPG) this Ugly Duckling has made a welcome nest on this patch of Richmond.

If it’s been a while since you last swanned by, this is yet another reason to pay a visit.

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