At the beginning of last year, delicious. Senior Editor and celebrity food judge Matt Preston put a public call out to find the best cafes in every region across Queensland.

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After countless votes from diners, it was Candy Cafe which claimed the top gong for Cairns in the state’s north.

One visit and it is easy to see why locals threw their support behind this personality-packed venture in the CBD.

Merging the grungy cool of a New York tattoo parlour with the greenery-filled tropical vibes of a Balinese resort, the contradictory, clashing fit-out is one that shouldn’t work but somehow does.

However, don’t think it’s just the hipster crowd attracted to the quirky conflation of themes, rather it’s patrons of every age group and demographic coming in to either satisfy their daily caffeine craving or enjoy a meal.

What’s most likely actually drawing in the diverse company, though, is the service team led by owner Chantelle Kenyon. As she swans around on my visit in a feminine pink dress more suitable for a day at the races than waiting tables, she refers to many customers by name, while other staff members attend to diners with alacrity.

It sets a convivial tone for the cafe as diners contemplate the mega menu. The all-day breakfast offering runs over three columns, from a superfood granola to a trio of omelettes and multiple vegan options. Then there’s lunch, with myriad burgers, sandwiches, wraps, salads and classics, such as fish and chips and nachos.

Perhaps inspired by the international backpacker community that once pumped through Cairns is the Spanish beans ($19.95). A melange of cannellini and kidney beans in a web of just-set tomato sauce pimped up with the piquancy of smoked paprika and chunks of excellent chorizo. It is served in a cast iron skillet capped with a sunny side up fried egg, a scattering of fresh bean shoots and two slices of lightly buttered ciabatta that make for grown-up versions of little dippy soldiers. 

Just as good is the eggs Benedict. Here there are four versions to choose from including a pulled pork option ($20.65) featuring a thick slab of toasted ciabatta providing a plinth for a tangle of soft, sweet piggy strands, wilted spinach and three runny-centred poached eggs.

Sunshine-hued hollandaise cascades over the top, followed by rivers of smoky barbecue sauce in a dish that could leave you satiated until dinner.

If you’ve been drawn in by the name, you might prefer the buttermilk pancakes with pistachios and Persian fairy floss.

Coffee comes from Toby’s Estate and is some of the best in Cairns, while a smoothie titled Passions showcases the best of North Queensland mangoes and passionfruit with the thirst-quenching citrusy refreshment of oranges.

Just like its name, Candy is a sweet cafe that’s sure to bring a smile to faces.