Is this it, the moment we look back on Melbourne’s cafe culture and realise this was the tipping point when we descended into a parody of our own version of Portlandia? For what could be more impossibly hip than a cafe that serves toast? Just toast. And coffee, of course. Thankfully, though, Crompton, Melbourne’s first – but not only – toast cafe is no hipsters’ paradise, though it is filled on any given day with the artfully creative typing away on laptops while sipping Small Batch coffee and supping on toast.

Like the menu, the space rocks a pared back aesthetic – dark floors, blonde panels, a lovely courtyard for when the sun shines – while little touches such as sparkling water on arrival herald an offering that’s a step above the norm.

And that toast? It’s actually excellent. Thick wedges of Rustica bakery bread that have a lovely crust on the bottom, but are light and airy inside, come with seasonal toppings that range from the simple – excellent housemade mandarin marmalade – through the exotic – thyme-poached pear with blue cheese, walnuts and watercress. Even the Vegemite – a good salty buttery smear topped with gruyere and grilled until golden – impresses. Non-toast options include a few vibrant salads and freshly filled baguettes during the week.

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