The scattergun approach to hospitality – trying to be many things to many people – is often the surest way to be nothing to no one, and the day-though-night space is one of the hardest tricks in the book to pull off.

But pull it off they do at Park St (formerly Green Park), a place as polished for an early morning latte as it is for a late night whisky, thanks, in part, to the clever fit out by Eades & Bergman that transforms the large space into an altogether more intimate affair after dark.

During the day, it’s all cafe classics with class – porridge might come topped with poached rhubarb and sheep’s milk yoghurt, while the corn bread waffle with a fried egg, will see you right through the day, and is a favourite with the many bike riders who jump off the Capital City path here.

Lunch takes the form of elegant pastas – a house gnocchi with rabbit meatballs, spaghetti with chill and pippis – while small snacks and charcuterie later on nail the wine bar brief and are complemented with a changing roster of bigger things from the wood grill and is where the kitchen struts its stuff more fully.

The wine list is filled with interesting drinking from here and abroad and cocktails, both new creations and classics, are shaken with class. It is many things to many people but whatever the time of day it is, Park St consistently delivers with understated elegance and style.

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