The staccato tap of construction is all around West End, but these streets still sport layers of history, from wire to stucco fences, wrought iron gates to art deco facades. Despite the changing landscape, Buddhist flags still flutter next door to worker’s cottages on stumps that date back a century. That is why café Lokal + Co, just a stone’s throw from Boundary Street, has a sporting chance at fitting into this eclectic ’hood.

Lokal has its own, somewhat mixed set of themes going on. There’s an Astroturf lawn on the lower level where dog owners gather with coffees, a timber deck that catches the winter rays, and a minimalist white-walled interior with copper and timber splashes. We don’t have many Nordic eateries in Queensland, so familiarity with the region’s fare remains scant. And though one of Lokal’s owners, chef Helge Olsen, is Norwegian, the menu isn’t true Nordic, taking influences and ingredients from a range of cuisines.

There’s gravlax, but the version here is nothing like the delicate cured salmon dish we know and love. Instead, I got salmon steak cooked with criss-crossed charring, and it wasn’t even pink in the centre. It was served with pretty pickled radish slices and rustic greens, and was a pleasant enough lunch, just not gravlax-pleasant.

I popped back a couple of days later and enjoyed a lovely silken eggplant caramelised with an un-Nordic miso. It sat with spiced lentils and braised carrots and was generously spangled with fresh herbs. There’s a small but pleasant wine list and a guest brewer among the beers on tap each week. The prices are loveable, too. Both lunch dishes were under $20.

The service is cheery, the ambience laid back, but I hope the menu can be tweaked just a bit so Lokal can add its own distinct handwriting to this much-loved part of Brisbane.