An ode to one of several memorable quotes by the brilliant, pompous Hyacinth Bucket of Keeping Up Appearances, this cafe backs its good looks with even better offerings.

Room for a Pony inhabits a former petrol station on North Hobart’s busy eatery strip, Elizabeth Street and pumps out trendy eats amid exposed cement, vertical greenery and short timber stools. Typical hipster chic, the place is cool but comfortable. So are the waiters who politely advise a Chinese omelette and lamb stew may be too big for one but to give the choc beet cake a go, as they cruise between tables in Doc Martins.

Gathering in this stable are all sorts. Young, old, hi-vis, suits, giggly with nose rings and black lipstick. Weekdays are a lovely pace; weekends really ramp up as locals emerge from the covers and seek an obligatory brunch and papers. There are seats outside, best in summer or with a four-legged mate.

As is the crowd, the menu is fresh and appeals to all. Not offered all that often in Tassie is all-day breakfast. Try the omelette, particularly the morning after the night before and add a purple juice. The lamb may have been generous, but deliciously teamed with sweet roast pumpkin and super smooth polenta. Coffee is exceptional and can be taken away, too.

There’s soon to be more room for that pony as management prepare to open a bar out the back.

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Tel: (03) 6231 0508