Out in the ‘burbs of Hobart there’s a food joint that has been going nuts since it opened a year ago. It could be because it’s hipster approved, what with its solid share tables, succulent wall, rad wallpaper, tattooed staff and lego colour scheme. Or maybe because it’s opposite the biggest thing to lure visitors to Tassie since scallop pies, the Museum of Old and New Art. But I reckon Local Pizza is such a hit because the grub it serves up is real, unassuming and completely brilliant.

We order, pay and collect cutlery at the counter, which allows the bevy of workers to get on with twirling bases and stoking the colossal wood-fired dome in which they’re cooked.

The contraption adds an even, generous amount of smoke and crisp to each serving. A mix of local and imported flour is used to create an exceptional base, but it’s the clever use of Tasmanian pickings which really make these pizzas pop.

Sidenote: gluten free goers are catered for plus vegans get cashew and lemon in place of cheese. Styles change regularly but you can be assured the classics are always present: Marg, Americano and Garlic. Sitting outside with kids playing hopscotch, a 50-something couple tipping back Cascade cans and some trendy uni students, two of us share the BBQ Bird, White Guy and Sting.

The Bird has the most atop it, with smoked free-range chicken, homemade sauce and a good smear of sour cream and refreshing coriander. The Sting’s Wellington Apiary honey, salami and DOP Taleggio makes it sweet, sticky and a bit sour. But the smothered simplicity of zucchini, gorgonzola and mozzarella make the White Guy our leading man.

Clearly biting off more than we could chew, I sheepishly ask for a doggy bag and the waitress promptly returns with takeaway trays.

Dessert is a fat piece of tiramisu, ice-cream sandwich, glazed doughnut by the folks at Smallfry or gelato. I opt for the latter: marscapone and fig plus salted caramel. Delicious. My companion picks tiramisu, which leaves a trail of food envy.

Local Pizza has close ties with nearby vineyard Stefano Lubiana, so naturally these renowned wines are featured on the small by-the-glass list. But we pick a gorgeous Austrian rose, nibble our lot and watch the steady stream of diners drift in and out on a still Saturday evening.

The place is fun, easy and so satisfying I recommend you don’t eat for at least six hours prior to visiting. It’s a while from the hub of Hobart but so, so worth it. Buon appetito.