As you wander down the dimly lit alleys, the waft of yakitori grilling, noodles brewing and karaage frying fill the air, and there’s a buzz of excitement as the locals unwind at the end of a long day over an easy supper and a few glasses of whisky or sake.

Bringing a taste of this to Brisbane is the rather comically named Superfly Funk Eye from the team behind Paddington’s Hai-Hai Ramen and King Tea.

Just like in Tokyo, the bar/eatery is hidden down a laneway — Woolloongabba’s new Eden Lane — and the place is tiny, with only two tables down the back against Besser block walls decorated with paper prints of pictures, and a row of seats at the bar, which are currently being raised as they’re too low to eat at comfortably. There is also a lovely little courtyard out the front — perfect by day and during summer evenings, but a little nippy on a winter’s night.

In keeping with the venue, the menu is compact, offering just eight snack-style dishes, or the choice of having them all for only $80.

The table next to us enthusiastically recommends we try the chicken karaage and the pork belly buns, while a girl at the bar suggests the roasted rice cakes with red dragon sauce and peanuts. We didn’t ask for their suggestions but the petite nature of the place encourages friendly interaction among diners and we welcome their tips.

After further consultation with the affable and knowledgeable young staff, we decide to start with the kingfish sashimi.

The thickly cut raw fish is flippingly fresh, reclining in a pool of yuzu-spiked creamy dressing with curls of tart kohlrabi shavings on top and gratings of Nori for a sneaky umami hit. Next up is the recommended pork belly bao — easily a crowd favourite with a slab of sweet and salty pork belly lashed with a spicy gochujang mayo, joined by cucumber and fresh coriander to balance out the fattiness.

And perfect on a chilly night is the duck udon — the mushroom-flavoured broth supporting tangles of udon noodles, charry crescents of leek, a soft poached egg and a fan of beautifully blushing duck pieces.

This is all simple, humble food but done well, and the perfect pairing for one of the four Asian-inspired cocktails, such as the Momo-chan with sloe gin, peach schnapps, apple juice and cucumber.

Or perhaps choose a glass of wine from the concise vegan-friendly list selected from sustainable wineries with minimal interaction, sulfates and additives.

They say it’s not the size that counts but how you use it and Superfly Funk Eye’s approachable and enjoyable offering is proving that bigger is not always better.

Superfly funk eye

Address 17 Gibbon St, Woolloongabba

Phone 3391 1387

Web superflyfunkeye.com

Open Tues-Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri-Sun noon-10pm

Verdict

Food 7.5

Service 8

Drinks 7

Ambience 7