It’s a bit dull when a restaurant goes through the motions; when nothing is terrible, but no one’s heart is in it either. I’d sum up Mode Kitchen & Bar in two words: it’s fine. It’s not a bad place – I’ve been to plenty of those – but in a bid to be safe, it’s painfully underwhelming. Even the name is boring. You’ve probably already forgotten it. It feels like the staff don’t know their various roles. Everything is a bit, “Um, let me check.” The chef is in civilians, wandering around, drinking coffee, chatting to waitstaff. The manager doesn’t know what the whole fish of the day is. There’s more, but you get the picture.

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