A few years ago two brave young chefs, James Parry and Daniel Puskas, threw caution to the wind, ignored advice and chanced their arm with a serious restaurant in the suburbs that challenged our ideals of what a truly Australian restaurant could be.

The sleepy suburb of Stanmore probably didn’t realise what was on its doorstep, and nor did most of Sydney for a period of time.

But bravery has its rewards. Parry may have moved on, but what Puskas and he created has evolved into perhaps the most definitive expression of Australian food, sentiment and persona.

The former corner store and fish ‘n’ chipper was converted into a decorative offspring of mid-century Scandinavian swagger and Australiana. – though not in a naff way. Warm wooden tables, earthy green walls, framed native flora and a cute, kitsch drinks station at its centre create a natural, serene and respectful dining space. There are few lovelier restaurants — the sun is streaming in the inset windows after a long lunch.

The wine list is a lesson in accessibility, adventure, brevity and precision in its ability to pair with the considered culinary nous of Puskas.

His is a homage to local and native ingredients given rock solid technique and delivered a dissertation by the chef who made it.

It’s what sets Sixpenny apart from our other high flyers. Mily macadamia combine with flecks of mud crab. Oyster enlivens in-season potato. Soft, earthy flathead gets a buzz out of nettles. Sticky, sweet pork jowl arrives adorned in apple slices. Spanish mackerel gets a bitter twang from radicchio leaves.

Sixpenny is as extraordinary as it is welcoming to all. So, if you haven’t been, it’s time to make a booking.

Must eat: Lightly smoked duck with witlof and plum