Behind the unassuming facade of its inviting timber deck overlooking Noosa River, lies what is best described as a hidden gem. Owner and hospitality veteran Marc Romanella has created a package that delivers the quality of service, food and drink associated with a big city fine diner without the pomp and pretension.

The phlegmatic fit-out with elongated polished concrete bar, comfy banquette seating and copper touches is as understated and on-trend as the share-style Modern Australian menu from chef Ash Warncken.

Start with a silken duck and chicken liver pate, sweet with brandy and seasoned with a crisp of dried chicken skin, alongside soothing elderflower gel and blueberry jam. Or try the line-caught market fish of the day – possibly Mooloolaba swordfish – lightly seared alongside the sweetest of heirloom beets and cracking dill pickles that bring welcomed acidity.

A tartare of smoked beetroot with bitey mustard sauce and ember oil takes the crimson vegetable to new heights, while blushing duck breast is elevated by a side of peaches poached in a cumin, cinnamon and salt mix.

And for the perfect end to a stellar line-up, order the dessert of rhubarb three ways – pickled, pureed and in a gel – effortlessly juxtaposed against lush vanilla bean-dotted panna cotta and crumbly roasted white chocolate.

With the knowledgeable and passionate Romanella on the floor ensuring service doesn’t skip a beat, and an eclectic and well-rounded wine list befitting a restaurant twice its size, Yoyo fails to miss a trick.

Must-eat dish: Smoked beetroot