Within a stark cube of concrete, steel and glass that takes industrial chic to almost absurd levels, Khanh Nguyen melds Indonesian, Malaysian and Vietnamese cuisine with indigenous Australian ingredients. What could in less skilful hands turn into a nightmare of lemon myrtle pho and saltbush nasi goreng is, instead, one of this year’s most surprising, exciting and innovative newcomers.

Welcome to Sunda, where curry-oil scented Vegemite butter is spread on crisp shredded roti, and XO egg noodles come with a pepperberry bite. It’s where wagyu beef rendang comes in bun form to swipe through fiery fermented chilli sambal, and Andaliman pepper adds lip-tingling heat to fat scallops cured in a sour lime-like citrus called calamansi.

Bigger dishes include lamb served on a thick dollop of cashew cream, with a “native curry” sauce adding a summer bushwalk to the crunchy saltbush leaves atop, while the crumpet-like yeasty coconut cake bika ambon with banana custard and pandan ice cream is a slice of Indonesia that comes via Queensland and is not to be missed.

Accomplished, wildly creative cooking that never forgets to be delicious, Sunda is an exciting ride through South East Asia on an Australian passport that’s one part Bintang, three parts brilliant.

Must eat dish: Vegemite curry roti