An elongated, marble-clad bar draws your attention, replete with smart stemware and a small collection of wines from the venue’s tome-like list, which is tumefied with intriguing labels and varieties from across the world, most notably, some of Greece’s finest.

The staff are warm and engaging, making each guest feel like they are the most important in the room, while food leaves the kitchen at a metronomic pace, ensuring the dining experience is that of a relaxed, indulgent feast.

The menu is designed to be shared, with three banquet-style offerings delivering highlights from the generous list of Greek classics, while a daily list of specials makes the most of fresh ingredients.

Raw ocean trout is one such special, arriving thinly sliced with a liberal dressing of Greek olive oil and a sprinkling of black sea salt and oregano accompanied by warm, crusty bread from The Bread Social in Tweed Heads. It’s simple but stunning. As is the orzo pasta with Queensland spanner crab. With hunks of crustacean, the rice-like pasta is expertly cooked and zinging with citrus, making what could be a heavy dish, light and almost ethereal.

Chargrilled lamb ribs special fall off the bone with tenderness, while their flame-kissed edges add texture and contrast against piquant tzatziki. The ribs are well matched to the Hellenika grilled vegetable salad ($24), which, rather than a salad, is an abundant plate of char-marked zucchini, eggplant, squash, asparagus and banana chillies. Dressed with nothing but olive oil and salt, it’s another example of how quality produce needs little interference.

As with the savoury items, desserts are all about the classics done well, with plating kept minimal and true of family-style dining.

The galaktoboureko is truly luscious, the warm, just-holding, creamy custard silken between layers of filo pastry, sticky and sweet with orange syrup.

And just like the galaktoboureko, Hellenika will leave you feeling nourished, fulfilled and deeply satisfied.

Must-eat dish: Orzo pasta