Cooking from the heart the recipes of his heritage, Coskun Uysal has redefined Turkish cuisine for a modern Melbourne audience at his humble, handsome Balaclava restaurant that opened earlier this year.

Dishes such as cilbir — slow-cooked egg in smoked yoghurt with a spiced brown butter crumb — and pirasa — olive oil poached leeks, molasses-steeped carrots and tea-soaked prunes — and even sardines served whole with crisp-fried skeletons atop, are traditional mezze reimagined to excellent effect. Bigger dishes such as the ordek, crisp-skinned pink duck served with a tea-softened apricot and smoked freekeh, highlight modern technique teamed with time-honoured tradition, where the black tahini that’s served alongside is a three-stage, two-day handmade effort. Desserts are equally accomplished. To wit: a thyme-sprinkled Jerusalem artichoke rice pudding is a sweetly savoury full stop of layered nuance.

A beautiful, focused and fair wine list finishes a package that’s a true Turkish delight.

Must eat dish: cilbir