It’s been years in the making but the redevelopment of the Harold Park Tramsheds have finally opened its doors, giving the suburbs arguably one of Australia’s most diverse array of cuisine restaurant experiences all under one roof.

Gentrification never looked so damn delicious. Housed in the epicentre of the industrial shell of the former 1904 tramsheds is the latest addition to Porteno/Bodega Group’s stable and Bodega 1904 is arguably the best of a big bunch in the spanking new site.

In fact, it may well be the best restaurant outside of the CBD. The new incarnation is an evolution of the Surry Hills original that started ten years ago but shares in everything the group believe are at the foundations of all successful hospitality venues.

That is great food, cracking and accessible wine and fun with a capital ‘F’. Plus Bodega 1904 wraps around the group’s very first wine shop – a glassroom filled with vino.

A beautifully designed counter/bar allows up to 20 guests to sit on swivel stools and swing to cool tunes and savour each bite. Service is as affable as if at a friends house and the food, designed to share, is the brainchild of head chef Joel Humphreys and of course the ‘Bodega Boys’ Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate.

King tiger prawns are boiled and served with a rich tomato butter to dunk them in. Queso fresco is grilled and partnered with grilled leek to deliver its sweet edge. Creme fraiche adds a velvetiness to wagyu rump tartare. Roasted spitchcock nestles into a bed of braised spring vegetables. It’s simplicity at its finger-licking best.

Must eat: Malt ginger loaf, brown butter ice cream