That’s been the case ever since this cracking “alcohol focussed” bar and bistro opened in 2016. But Liberty’s Sunday lunch is really upping the ante. For the price of a single dish at some of our fine diners ($45), you can savour eight ‘shared’ dishes here and match those – if you wish – with a brace of beverages.

Liberty’s drinks list is not the longest in town, but it’s the most idiosyncratic, an informal manifesto (devised by sommelier Banjo Harris Plane) that draws a bead on our quirkiest vignerons, brewers and distillers, and probes far corners of the wine world.

As for Casey Wall’s robust food, it’s better than ever. Superlative sourdough, suitable for swiping through carrot butter, may well precede pickled cauliflower and sublime Goolwa pippies in an XO sauce. Then again, you might luck in with Liberty’s lamb shoulder, cooked over charcoal and served with a beetroot salad, roasted fennel and russet potatoes.

Service is spot on, so hospitable we spied one staffer nursing a baby in the corner so its parents could finish dessert (coconut cake with dark chocolate and tamarind). Only at Bar Liberty.

Must-eat dish: Lamb shoulder with preserved lemon