As the Brisbane River twinkles from the lights of QPAC and the Wheel of Brisbane spins in the distance, it’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting than Persone.

The Italian eatery, hidden among the Brisbane Quarter complex next to W Brisbane, is the latest venture for Brisbane hospitality family the Gambaros (Gambaro Seafood and Black Hide steakhouses) and is a modern, elegant and sophisticated tribute to their Italian heritage.

The lengthy and diverse menu extends from crudi such as oysters or beef carpaccio into antipasti including pumpkin and goat’s cheese bruschetta, meatballs and grilled asparagus, to traditional primi like seafood risotto and pesto gnocchi, into mains of market fish and cotoletta alla milanese, as well as pizze, cooked in their electric PizzaMaster oven.

It’s a relatively safe menu, sticking to the classics, but that was the Gambaro vision – to keep it simple, but focus on quality. And it’s a goal that’s achieved with the tuna crudo ($24.50), featuring paper-thin slices of stunning raw tuna cured in a negroni syrup with curls of pickled cucumber and diced orange for acidity.

The pork and beef ragu ($29.50) delivers those warm and comforting Italian flavours; while the rolled pork belly, served simply with wilted kale and a dab of pumpkin puree, boasts the crispest of crackling and is evidence why this dish has become an Italian staple.

Desserts (all $14.50), again, walk a traditional path with the likes of tiramisu and cannoli, while a caramelised fig tart with almond ice cream and honeycomb offers a solid play of textures.

For traditional Italian fare in a setting that’s easily among Brisbane’s best, Persone will win fans.

Must eat dish: Porchetta