A couple of years ago, a review of Colin Fassnidge’s 4fourteen included a lot of meaty references. Bone marrow, liver, black pudding, ox tongue; the secondary cuts appeared in great quantities. But something has happened to the kitchen here. There’s a black pudding and bacon jaffle, so nose-to-tail fans needn’t despair, plus grilled ox tongue, and the whole suckling pig is still available to large groups; but a lovely savoury lightness has emerged, too.

The My Kitchen Rules judge spends a lot of his time at the pans of his latest endeavour, the pub Banksia, near Rockdale, but he regularly returns to his Surry Hills outpost. He’s one of the few celebrity chefs who still mans the pass in his own restaurants, and one thing’s for sure – the man can cook. Flaked spanner crab, coated with mayo, is slightly chilled and propped in dollops on crispy chicken skin as if it were a cracker. The salty, chicken-y bite is incredibly tasty, a perfect example of surf and, well, pasture.

Service is swift and friendly, and the large industrial-style room maintains warmth and a buzz, although it might not be able to resist a makeover for much longer. Singles and couples can eat at the open-kitchen, perched on front-row seats, or there’s banquette seating against the exposed brick wall for groups.

The famous chicken bread is deservedly so. A slab of sourdough that has waited patiently under a roasting chicken, absorbing the juices slowing rendering into its crust, is topped with a pillow of avocado cream, crab and baby sorrel leaves. The bread sits in a puddle of rich chicken broth so further mopping can occur at the table. It’s a simple, honest and remarkably delicious dish.

Roast squid comes as a couple of local baby squid per person, golden and caramelised, and umami-rich in the middle. It’s doused in a ginger vinaigrette that doesn’t overpower, but you’re left wanting to lick the plate all the same.

It’s impossible to cull from the menu so over ordering is inevitable, leaving no room at all between your own nose and tail.

Must eat dish: the squid with ginger vinaigrette
Instagram: @4fourteen_restaurant