Charlie Carrington’s experimental, globe-trotting restaurant continues to stamp its passport, with Israel, Mexico and Peru previously capturing the attention of the peripatetic chef, who changes the entire cuisine of this, his first restaurant, every four months. But what does the young gun make of the food of the home of gastronomy?

Through four or seven courses, Carrington’s travels through France deliver dishes including garlic snail croquettes, venison tartare, silken cured salmon with crushed walnuts and dried leeks, and juicy mushrooms hidden under buttery mash.

Perhaps to be expected of an ever-moving, ever-changing menu there are misses – an unpleasant acrid undercurrent to the onion soup; a pungent, jarring Jerusalem artichoke ice cream with coffee jelly to end – that makes a meal here feel like walking a tightrope.

But when he nails a dish, such as an inspired take on the cheese course featuring delice de Bourgogne ice cream with honey, pear slivers and dressed leaves atop, it’s a moment of magic.

The wine list, like the menu, also cleverly changes its allegiance, with the bar doing a nice line in house-made liqueurs that stick to the theme.

Unlike any other restaurant out there, Atlas captures the fleeting attention of gen Y while also appealing to their parents. Get your passport stamped.

Must eat dish: Delice de bourgogne ice cream