Foodies will get excited by the likes of quail with prosciutto, witlof, parmesan and orange gastrique, or cauliflower, leek and gruyere croquettes with mustard, while more timid tastebuds will find comfort in classics such as fried calamari, or steak and whipped potato. It’s a menu that’s accessible to all, but most importantly, it’s tasty.

Take the duck spring roll ($16), the super crisp golden wrapper bulging with a flavourful blend of diced barbecued duck, cabbage, shiitake mushroom and herbs, with a mild, viscous chilli caramel sauce for dipping. Simple but satisfying.

The well-made gnocchi ($18), which has a golden crust from a quick kiss in the pan, comes with a well-seasoned burnt butter sauce, squirts of pumpkin puree for sweetness, toasted hazelnuts for crunch, and a gentle smokiness and tartness from clusters of ricotta.

While the rare beef ($16) has its roots in tradition, modern plating makes it something special, with curls of the blushing bovine sitting on a spread of skordalia with just a hint of acid, alongside capers and dots of mustard cream. Pile the whole lot onto the accompanying crisp shards of bread and it’s a comforting, yet elevated, combination.

Add top-notch service from the knowledgeable and competent team, and an elegant, contemporary fitout complete with a relaxed courtyard, and Drum delivers a beat worth marching to.

Must-eat dish: Gnocchi