It’s still queue-tastically busy, its menu still crowd-pleasingly broad and, though it’s spawned a thousand imitators across the country, is still in a league of its own. More than seven years and many, many diners later Chin Chin is still pumping.

No one’s coming here for a quiet, refined time to ponder the intricacies of a Thai-ish menu that runs more than four-dozen dishes deep – it’s big, it’s brash, it’s bold with flavours that tend to the sweet, bar the brilliantly brow-mopping duck larb.

Gnarly, tender pork ribs that slide from the bone are great finger food, with crisp-fried duck delivering a plate of ginger-amped crunch. A side of stir-fried green beans with a burnt chilli peanut sambal is an unexpected showstopper of a wok star.

The heaving bustle can get in the way of a logical progression of plates from the kitchen – though gooey chilli-spiked son-in-law eggs are good enough to eat for dessert – and service can tend to err on the “no worries mate” side of casual.

Cool cache is amped with excellent house beer collabs and cracking local crafties in tins, while the wine focus remains pleasingly strong.

For a fun feed that still has incredible pan-generational appeal, to Chin Chin we say cheers.

Must eat dish: Twice-cooked pork ribs with crispy rice salad