The restaurant, which opened to acclaim in 2020, is still one of the most difficult in the city at which to grab a dinner reservation, with waits of weeks for eager diners. The menu continues to evolve though, with starters such as charred cucumbers with peanuts, green garlic and bright pops of finger lime.

Slightly larger dishes run to grilled tiger prawns with chilli shoyu and mandarin vinegar, or koji-brined eggplant, flavoured with macadamia, seeds and agrodolce and crowned with a thick thatch of sweet potato leaves, building a case that eating vegetarian here is a very worthy option.

Of the bigger dishes, saddleback pork, dry aged for two weeks, is edged with crackling and teamed with lentils, smoked chestnut and sour cherry. A side of wood-fired cabbage builds the veg CV with beguiling lacto koji butter sauce and cured egg yolk.

Finish with grilled fig encircled by white chocolate cream, and topped with burnt honey ice cream at a restaurant with quality service, a cracking drinks list and a kitchen bristling with confidence and elan.

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