From Swillhouse – the good-time gang who brought us Frankie’s Pizza, The Baxter Inn and Hubert – the Australian-inflected trattoria became an instant classic the moment it opened in 2018.

With its shelves stacked with Italian and natural wines, soundtrack of funk and soul records, and patchwork of retro posters and eclectic art, it’s as ineffably cool as ever. Elizabeth Mitchell stepped up as head chef this year, and is carrying on the legacy of founding father Dan Pepperell.

Burrata is indulgent in its simplicity, the creaminess offset by slithers of tart Queen Garnet plum and crushed hazelnuts. Pasta is still the main event – whether toothsome spaghetti with plump mussels and chunks of octopus in a spicy, umami-rich tomato sauce; or hand-shaped strozzapreti in a lick-the-bowl-clean amatriciana.

Murray cod in a puddle of roast garlic butter has a delicate decadence that owes something to French cuisine, while broccoli gratin is comfort-food personified. Leave room for a plate of zeppole – greedy bites of crispy choux with a core of just-warm custard. 

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