A perfect coral trout fillet that’s actually made like “salami from the sea’’. Nothing at Armadale’s small neighbourhood diner, Amaru, is an afterthought.

If anything, executive chef Clinton McIver does the opposite for a meaningful, memorable and marvellously delicious experience for all. Pretty-plated creations seamlessly marry seasonal produce with bush flavours that range across five or seven courses.

Things may begin with artichoke three ways – in leaf-shaped cracker form, butter-roasted cubes and a sweet and salty chip. Chill out with a brain-tingling pineapple and melon granita hiding cured scallops and a lemon aspen curd beneath, or a Scrabble-tile-sized soft chew of white chocolate and shiitake mushroom to end.

A deliberately different wine list heroes homegrown hits as much as obscure overseas drops, such as South African cinsault or Californian pinot noir by the glass, poured by expert waiters with wine smarts and warm hearts.

Plush material chairs, gauzy curtains and accented mood lighting create an intimate space inside the 34-seater that’s at once elevated, sleek and simple. It’s all very Amaru. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.