Everything on the plate at Anchor is either grown close to (sometimes within metres of) its Ormond Rd base, ethically sourced or made from scratch. Soft and sweet pan-seared haloumi eats without squeak, and is only made seasonally when the animals at Macedon Ranges’ Dreaming Goat are calving. Served simply with extra virgin olive oil, dried oregano and green olives, it champions the produce and farmer.

Wheat for the flatbread is harvested and milled to order from Mornington Peninsula’s Tuerong Farm and a silky lavender honey ice cream hatched on a pastry bird’s nest of baklava is churned to floral glory up the road at Brighton’s Little Sky Gelato. 

The Coquilles St Jacques serves sweet, supple Western Australian scallops in their shell, swimming in a milky beetroot and Champagne sauce which deliciously counters the richness. Cold cocktails (with or sans alcohol), Bad Shepherd beer made 10km away in Cheltenham and Mediterranean wines round out a vast, considered drinks list.

The Virniks have set a high benchmark with their produce, cooking and service, and survived turbulent seas with unwavering grit and gusto. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.