Shelves packed with LPs line the wall behind the bar, atop which sits the record player playing the soundtrack to your evening. A mixture of bar seating, high-top tables and restaurant tables mean you can choose your own adventure – be it drinks and snacks at the bar, or a sit-down meal.

Sake is the drawcard, with a 65-strong list from across Japan. If you’re new to sake (or even if you’re not), the tasting flights lets you try a few varieties, with highly knowledgeable staff there to guide you. Chef Jemma Whiteman slings considered plates with flavour designed to match that superb sake list.

Choose from smaller snack-style dishes like roasted carrot on comte custard with Aleppo pepper and poppy seed togarashi; sliced pancetta with pretty curls of persimmon and bitey green chilli, and tender lamb arrosticini with anchovy and bamboo salt.

For something more substantial, rotating plates such as prawn casarecce with kanzuri (fermented chilli) and clementine will hit the spot. This relative newcomer to King St is quietly upping the ante of Sydney’s bar-cumrestaurant scene.

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