Former sous chef, Michelin-trained Isasia Dal Fiume, is running the show and his main courses include handmade tagliolini bound with white sauce and sea urchin, Patagonian toothfish with celeriac textures or very tender lamb intriguingly teamed with lemongrass, cauliflower and kale and bathed in a rich jus.

A deconstructed pear, dill and hazelnut dessert with shards of meringue and crumbs is a harmonious final option. Sourdough and olive oil, an amuse-bouche of mojito spheres on a spoon, as well as petit fours are complimentary.

The dining experience is given an additional up-market edge by the polite, formally dressed staff who wear gloves to lay out the cutlery and a sommelier who decants the wines by the glass to check them before pouring at the table.

The wine list deserves serious consideration, with more than 40 wines by the glass and 600 bottles. Seven-course degustations, including a vegan option, and its famous high teas are also making a comeback at one of the city’s last bastions of the fine-dining experience.

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