Banc Brasserie and Wine Bar in the city is inspired by everything old being new again.
An obsession with all things old seems to be sweeping through Brisbane’s restaurant scene of late.
From the recently opened Mr Badgers in Woolloongabba, inspired by New York’s traditional delis and boasting an 1800s tram car replica inside, to the flash new Rothwell’s Bar & Grill in the CBD channelling 1920s London dining, classic bistros and brasseries are back in vogue.
A combination of factors are seemingly driving the trend: a craving for comfort food and the familiar after almost two years of pandemic upheaval, and cheaper rents in many of our city’s most glamorous historic buildings, with inventory high.
Joining this movement are Port Office Hotel owners and husband-and-wife team Nick and Meagan Gregorski, and former QA Hotel manager Jordan Ashelford, who have just opened Banc Brasserie and Wine Bar in the old Bank of New South Wales building on the corner of George and Queen streets, in Brisbane’s CBD.
Signalling to passers-by the stunning sandstone property’s transformation into a restaurant is a row of wicker-look chairs set behind brass bollards at the entrance. It’s classically European and so is the wine bar anchored by the open kitchen that greets guests when they walk through the door.
Soaring ceilings and intricate plasterwork beholden to the period of the building scream old world charm, as does brass detailing, marble flooring and a baby grand piano.
The floral curtains and cushions strewn across a brown banquette in the main dining room, however, are a bit more grandma’s living room than heritage glamour. But the venue is still waiting for a shipment of furniture, so they can add a private dining space and a more casual eating area opposite, so let’s hope the upholstery is upgraded as part of the changes.
Ringing true to the classic brasserie theme is the tight European menu from ex-Montrachet chef Lucas McMillan featuring just seven entrees and six mains, plus two share-style dishes: a sirloin on the bone and a whole steamed and fried duck.
Duck parfait ($24) is a sizeable entree, perhaps better shared, featuring a quenelle of the satiny mixture alongside three almost inch- thick slices of golden brown, toasted brioche and a bunch of plump and bursting, soaked muscatels. It’s a solid rendition of the ubiquitous dish. As is the pork belly ($32), classically paired with two scallops, dots of pea puree and cubes of apple with a loose ginger-forward caramel.
Of the mains, steak frites is the clear favourite on our visit, gracing half the tables, and paired with a glass of red from the venue’s 350-plus bottle wine list with a penchant for pinot noir and chardonnay from across the globe.
There are also fittingly named cocktails in honour of the building’s history, such as “Stocks and bonds” and the fruity and pleasantly acidic “Buyback” featuring riesling, sherry, pineapple juice and citrus.
It pairs surprisingly well with the main of coral trout ($42), the fish’s skin textbook crisp, its flesh seasoned by an ocean of blood lime- infused beurre blanc pooling in the bottom of the bowl and pearls of salmon caviar topping three de-shelled mussels.
As for the lamb rack ($46), the trio of cutlets arrive blushing pink as promised, alongside wilted rainbow chard, rather than the advertised cavolo nero, and with perfectly turned yellow and red beetroot.
With protein the star of most dishes, this is not really the place for vegetarians, however, a main of lion’s mane mushroom ($38), cut like a steak, pan fried and served with lashings of Jerusalem artichoke puree and a vegan jus almost steals the show.
The service here is as traditional as the decor, with the obsequious staff as cheery as they are attentive. They’ll try to twist your arm into one of just two desserts: a panna cotta or a creme brulee, or the cheese platter, but good luck fitting it in after the generously proportioned entrees and mains.
Banc Brasserie is a restaurant for people who appreciate old school hospitality and flavours. It won’t break any moulds but nor is it trying to.
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