There’s something particularly joyful about a buzzing restaurant, especially one which has been closed for over two years. You know why. Since then Neil Perry has left the Rockpool Dining Group which split in two and Bar Patron is now operated by Pacific Concepts (still in collaboration with tequila brand Patron). It’s back and ready to fiesta with a Mexican executive chef.

Certainly, your tastebuds are in for a fiesta with a menu of fresh, lively flavours and a cocktail list featuring some top notch tequilas including the ultra popular Patron Tequila. Why not start with the Patron Classic Margarita, assuming the $100 Millionaire’s Margarita prepared tableside complete with gold leaf is beyond your budget. Then there is a well chosen list with some good international and Australian wines by the glass. Perhaps start with the 2019 Valminor Albariño as a great match for the first dishes with a 2021 Giant Steps pinot noir to follow.

Staff are young, friendly, welcoming and very enthusiastic explaining the menu. This helps make up for the noise from the tiled floor and bar, despite some sound baffles under the tables, in the ceiling and curtains. The mostly younger clientele love it as do those sitting at the long Carrara marble bar or next to windows for the stunning view out over Sydney Harbour.

The food is appealing, well-proportioned and designed to share. While vibrant, it is balanced and shows masterful handling of chilli. So a tumble of diced, translucent scallops are surrounded by a mix of carefully spiced pineapple and lime juice and chopped coriander, garnished with red onion and jalapeño chillies. You mix your own ceviche and the end result sings with freshness and just the right hit of chilli.

The chilli in Pork Carnitas Tostadita is more complex and developed from the long, slow cooking of the pork in its own juices for 12 hours. Rich and flavoursome, the meltingly soft pork is supported by crisp orange and ginger tostadas with an avocado salsa and grated queso fresco (cheese). Tacos are a must, warm and slightly crisp around the edges and wrap beautifully around crisp, soft shell crab with cabbage, pickled red onion, baby shiso and morita salsa. Each dish is a celebration of different textures.

House-pressed flour tortillas are also warmed Al Carbon (over coal) and the resulting smokiness is just the foil for the richness of the perfectly cooked, moist, juicy signature dish of half or whole Lobster al Patron with Oaxaca cheese sauce. This was skilfully removed from its shell at the table by one of the chefs who brought several dishes out.

The fun continues with Dessert Taco Trio beautifully presented in little stands: Mixed Berry, crisp, dainty tacos of cannoli pastry filled yuzu marmalade, candied orange and vanilla custard; Caramelised Banana, dulce de leche, chantilly, shards of dark chocolate and cinnamon; and Lime Cremeux with baby meringues and micro coriander. What a textural flavour bomb of a finale.

Prices are a little above moderate but next time you are on your way to or from the Opera House, call in and say hola! for a drink, a snack or the whole experience.

Related review: Omakase but not as you know it at Korean newcomer Kobo