Acclaimed chef Nornie Bero puts her Torres Strait Islands childhood and a whole lot of joy on every plate at her Federation Square diner. From periwinkles to casava, there’s a wide breadth of Torres Strait Island cuisine that is largely unknown to other Australian diners, and Bero is delighted to share her childhood food memories with the people of Naarm (Melbourne) as well as showcase Indigenous ingredients from around the country.

Thin slips of iron-rich emu, charred on the outside but beating red in the centre, are countered with a sweet molasses lick and chimichurri kick to keep you coming back for another bite. Bero’s favourite childhood snack, namas, are a must-order. South Australian kingfish is cured in coconut milk and lime, then scooped into the mouth with salty taro crisps. 

The Big Esso space also salutes the chef’s heritage, incorporating items that represent her totem (a shark and a gecko), bamboo that Bero collected from the Torres Strait, and artworks from Indigenous artists. Big Esso!

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