There’s a large white chimp and giant pair of sunglasses on the lawn and plenty of hirsute millennials gathered around the brazier. They’re here for the wine, but also because Bird in Hand has a reputation for hosting hot-ticket concerts and dinners and a rapidly expanding contemporary art collection.

The winery’s Gallery Restaurant extends this concept: a lovely light-filled room dotted with some of that art, well spaced tables and enthusiastic young staff who know the winery’s impressive oeuvre inside out.

This is a shared dining experience, a “flight” of four or six courses with two different dishes at a time making for a convivial lunch even if you are dining a deux.

Chef Nigel Munzberg’s seasonal menus are built around the restaurant’s own vegetable garden and nearby producers. Starters might include Spencer Gulf kingfish marinated in ruby grapefruit and buttermilk; or SA octopus served alongside a smoky eggplant puree and Aldinga samphire. A salad of broccolini and pear from the garden is enlivened with truffle pecorino. Beef tenderloin comes out with a vegetarian main of roasted cauliflower and local goats cheese that more than holds its own against the meat.

Desserts include a cheese course and something sweet and substantial, perhaps a mess of chocolate mousse with house-made honey marshmallow.