Owned by the Gambaro Group, whose flagship seafood restaurant is across the road, this is the older sibling of Black Hide by Gambaro in the city. It’s a cosy space with white-clothed tables across two rooms and an emphasis on service.

Diners can kick off with Italian meatballs, barbecue beef short ribs or eye fillet carpaccio, move on to the selection of Stanbroke Angus marble score 3-plus and wagyu marble score 5-plus steaks, say a precisely cooked medium-rare skirt steak, and finish with wagyu fat frangipane, which slightly tempers the sweetness, with Pedro Ximenez ice cream, peach and vanilla cream.

Or you could avoid meat entirely and graze on oysters, flash-fried school prawns or grilled scallops, move on to fish of the day, perhaps barramundi, which is fresh, crispy skinned and cooked just right, or perhaps spanner crab and sweet corn tortellini. All of this comes with a side order of old-school, quality service.

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