But playing favourites with dishes at this dramatically dark, contemporary Japanese restaurant in the bowels of a heritage-listed former bank building is like choosing between children.

Sitting in plush, high-backed, red chairs among old vaults, it’s an ambience that demands a good time. And the amiable, consummate wait staff will ensure just that. Let them get you started with a drink – sake, Sapporo or whisky for an authentic Japanese experience. Or one of many carefully crafted, Asian-leaning cocktails. There’s even wine from Japan among an enticing global list of broadly priced drops well matched to the food. 

And it’s here chef Zac Sykes has fun with Japanese flavours, adding European technique in parts across the share-style menu. Think excellent wagyu beef tartare with tonburi and fried lotus chips for scooping, or perfectly pink lamb rump sliced over a viscous king brown mushroom and koji miso emulsion.

Unforgettable for dessert is the salty, not-too-sweet nitrogen-frozen miso chocolate mousse with dulce de leche atop blueberries and mini malt balls that arrives at the table under a dramatic white cloud. This is Japanese with a theatrical twist.

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