Every ingredient surrounding the Birregurra farmhouse is celebrated in its purest, freshest and mind-blowingly delicious forms on the plate. Dan Hunter takes us on an Otways Hinterland tour across 10 courses.

You may swoon over prawn tacos wrapped in parchment-paper-thin kohlrabi, or a summer’s-end minestrone. Meat takes a back seat, used sparingly and consciously, perhaps seen in coal-fired abalone and pork jowl skewer or in blushing red lobes of Great Ocean duck.

Nothing goes to waste: wheat loaves are made from grains grown, milled and baked in a woodfire oven mere metres away. Wheat or spelt is also used to brew Brae’s own beer, Liquid Asset, helped by local brewery Prickly Moses. Brae’s commitment to reaping what it sows is teamed with stellar service and a confident wine list with impressive no-booze pairings.

If money isn’t an issue, pack a bag and enjoy an overnight stay, which sees warm sourdough and housemade jams delivered to your cabin. Boasting exceptional cooking and an experience to boot, Brae remains a world-class favourite.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.