He starts with black beans, soy and palm sugar, then adds three types of native myrtle, making it a perfect playmate for a DIY assembly of tea-smoked pork, chewy, charred pancakes, cucumber pickles and a weapons-grade chilli relish.

Bringing together such powerful global players could have turned into the culinary equivalent of a diplomatic meltdown but this impressive young chef makes it work brilliantly. Erky’s inspired ways with native ingredients have taken Bush DeVine from quirky cafe to becoming an important part of the regional dining landscape. Not that you will notice much of a change walking through the Pauletts cellar door and out to a deck that makes the most of the winery’s stunning outlook.

Mixed mushrooms come with an intense emulsion of miso and a jug of custard infused with kombu (seaweed) and shiitake. Wide ribbons of saltbush pappardelle are folded through a mix of wilted warrigal leaves, wedges of washed rind cheese and “bushfire” roasted chestnuts.

Erky is a real talent and the young team around him operates with a commendable level of professionalism. Book early.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.