The cheeriest of greetings welcomes diners into Cartel del Taco in Hawthorne, the only thing brighter than the smiles of co-owner Marco Ramirez and his green front-of-house team is the eatery’s neon sign stretched across the building’s facade, and the gaudy fit-out inside.

The new venue is the seven-year dream of Ramirez and business partner Erick Martinez, who both longed to bring the authentic street food of their homeland to Australia after moving Down Under from Mexico City.

Related review: This Albion restaurant’s lemon tart is as good as gold

Inspired by Mexican taquerias of the 1980s, the venture features polished concrete floors, shiny fire-engine-red tiles, and red metal tables and chairs the pair collected from Mexico and refurbished.

It’s the type of casual venue that guests feel comfortable to relax in, push their sleeves up and let the meat juices run down their arms as they devour tacos two at a time to a soundtrack fit for a fiesta.

Our backsides have barely hit our seats when bar manager Ernesto Granados eagerly suggests three different signature cocktails based on different flavour profiles to complement the list of classic margaritas and tequila-based concoctions. Cheek-suckingly sour The Gardener is the winner, combining Patron Silver tequila with Cointreau, passionfruit and citrus.

There’s also a handful of wines from France, Spain, New Zealand and Australia, plus a clutch of Mexican beers, including Dos Equis lager on tap. Martinez, who has worked as a taquero since the age of 11, runs the kitchen, of which the centrepiece is a traditional Mexican grill known as a trompo, that allows meat to be stacked and cooked vertically. Similar to the upright rotisserie seen in kebab shops, the stainless steel grill is used to create the venue’s signature dish – the classic Al Pastor tacos ($16 for two).

Piled inside the thinnest of corn tortillas is pork that erupts with juices, the flavours of its guajillo chilli, vinegar, citrus and spice marinade spilling from its spit-grilled shavings. Topped with a whisper of fresh coriander and a wedge of roasted pineapple, it earns its signature status.

Just as good are the pescadillas – red snapper-stuffed, deep-fried quesadillas ($18). Resembling giant clams that line the sea bed of the Great Barrier Reef, the crimped parcels come topped with pico de gallo, guacamole, fresh herbs and a mild chilli sauce that make them far too easy to eat en masse.

The octopus tostadas ($22) are another must-order from the entrees, with two crunchy, corn chip-like tortillas the plinth for a mountain of cold sliced octopus tentacles, coriander, onion, mayonnaise and a sweet, barbecue-esque sauce. A vegetarian cauliflower steak ($26) from the trio of mains is fine, but your money and stomach capacity are best reserved for the snacks, tacos, and tequila-fuelled drinks.

For Martinez and Ramirez, Cartel Del Taco is a clear labour of love and it’s this passion which is no doubt responsible for the huge crowds that have been flocking since it opened.