The original 25-seat Chaco slung cult ramen for lunchtime and flame-grilled skewers at night. When Abe secured the larger Potts Point site in 2019, Darlinghurst became Chaco Ramen and the new Chaco Bar was dedicated to Fukuoka-style yakitori from Abe’s hometown.

Weekdays offer a la carte, weekends a tasting menu. A U-shaped dining room conjures up distinct spaces, with a cosy bar on one side, long communal table on the other and the prime seats overlooking the kitchen at the apex, where chefs expertly work the robata grill. From that grill come the likes of juicy king oyster mushrooms in a snow of Comté and joyfully smoky, salty chicken “crackling”. Butterflied king prawns, shells blistered, are doused with lobster XO, while silken miso eggplant gratin hides under a molten, cheesy top. Seared Kagoshima wagyu is served austerely with “the expensive salt and expensive wasabi”.

If you’re expecting a traditional wine list, widen your scope. Barrel-aged shochu, whisky highballs, Japanese beer and wine share one menu, with another devoted entirely to sake. Let the sake sommelier steer – you’re in good hands. 

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.