But when you treat them right – as Chianti does by gently grilling them in the half shell and serving them with a splash of Genovese pesto and a crunchy crostini – they go to another level.

It’s an example of how the Italian eatery that has been serving Adelaideans since 1985 continues to excel. The lighting and ambience are perfect, it’s quiet enough to have a conversation even when it’s busy, and the wait staff are friendly – without being over-familiar – and knowledgeable. Like all good waiters, they know the right time to check on you and when to let you enjoy the meal.

Those meals are mostly excellent. The aforementioned scallops are a highlight, as is the take on the classic crab linguini – made with local blue swimmers, basil and chilli sugo. A secondi of King George whiting with burro bianco and Boston Bay mussels shows why South Australia really is the seafood capital of the country, while an Angus sirloin served with marrow in a split bone and a sharp parsley and shallot jus will keep any carnivore happy. Finish with a classic affogato or a selection of great Italian cheeses.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.