It was Sydney’s turn to get in line when restaurateur Chris Lucas looked north in 2017, and, five years on, the Victorian expat is entirely at home in Surry Hills. The expansive dining room and adjacent GoGo bar have group dining in mind. This is no place for an intimate tete-a-tete – bring the gang, take up your chopsticks and get ready to pass plates.

The menu from head chef Matthew Macleod and Melbourne-based executive chef Benjamin Cooper starts in China, trips across Vietnam and Malaysia and lingers in Thailand. A signature lime-and coconut-spiked kingfish sashimi is proof that if it ain’t broke… Fried barramundi and caramelised pork finds balance with green apple spearsand herbs, while wok hei licks smoky depths out of wagyu beef pad seuw with rolled rice noodles.

Don’t forget dessert – fried banana roti with a dollop of ice cream. A good-time drinks list matches the good-time vibes, with cocktails featuring flavours such as yuzu and Thai basil. For dining with a cheerful disregard of geographical boundaries, just follow the pink rabbit.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.