The service is personable and warm, the wine list is considered and interesting (as you’d expect, thanks to the guidance of sommelier Nick Hildebrandt), and the space, with sculptural wooden pieces that hang like stalactites from the ceiling and curved leather banquettes, is on par with the flashy new venues that are opening left and right.

In the kitchen, chef Brent Savage plates up dishes with his usual flair. Blush-pink bluefin tuna belly – one of the specials of the day – is buttery and rich, served with a tiny drop of wasabi (it’s all you’ll need) and lime. It almost looks underwhelming – that is, until you taste it.

That’s the common theme here. Sure, there are different flavours and techniques, but at the end of the day these offerings allow the produce to speak for itself. Skull Island prawns are a perfect example, split down the centre and served grilled. Then there’s Murray cod with miso and sansho pepper, and Black Angus strip-sirloin (enjoyed with a bowl of hot chips with house-made chicken salt). Dessert is the most intricate: sticky date reimagined with poached pear and miso caramel.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.