Taking over an old warehouse in Fortitude Valley, City Winery is Brisbane’s first inner-city winery since 1860, doubling as a restaurant and bar.

Guests can pull up a stool at an old oak barrel-cum-table in the front of the warehouse and snack on charcuterie or head to the back to the restaurant proper — a tiny, concrete floored, L-shaped space with tan leather banquette seating, draping greenery, meat hanging cabinets and artworks from the wife of winemaker David Cush, Kristen.

Welcoming, if slightly inattentive staff, will help diners navigate the share-style menu, which heroes ethically, sustainably and locally sourced produce.

Start perhaps with smoked mussels suspended in an aioli spiked with the spicy spreadable salami nduja ready to be scooped up with bubbly brown rice crisps.

Or choose a long wedge of roasted butternut pumpkin joined by popcorn, puffed rice and grains crowned with a calorific dollop of cultured cream.

From the meaty mains, the organic sheep from Mallow Farm near Stanthorpe is the standout, with leg pieces just pink, while the shoulder has been slow-cooked and wrapped in filo to form a “sheep streusel”.

The wine list obviously favours house blends under the Gerler label, as well as drops from winemakers that inspire Cush.

For a taste of the country in the big smoke, City Winery delivers.

Exceptional dish: Smoked mussels with aioli and brown rice crisps