A braised octopus entree recalls the classic sweet and sour notes of Venice. Or Sicily. But almost every dish has a little twist that lifts it from predictable to pleasurable. Those ravioli – in really good fresh pasta casings – pair up with capsicum, black garlic and a dusting of burnt leek. Another pasta dish comes with bok choy. There’s zucchini with yoghurt and ponzu. And a slightly odd-sounding chuck tail flap (well, it is the name of the cut) translates into jus-glazed, charry-outside-pink-inside meat slices with peppers and a little celery, softened with dates. Italian in intention, inventive in execution.

There’s a fine wine list – lots of interesting Italian varietals and a friendly sommelier who knows his stuff. The vibe is relaxed and friendly and you can greet chef Matteo in the kitchen as you walk in – or out of – the navy-blue front door, still with its oldschool curved awning, swirled plaster exterior and brass name plate.

But don’t forget about dessert. The sage and burnt-butter ice cream with brioche – musky, herbal and milky-sweet – is a scoop you’ll want to leave room for. 

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