It’s the creation of chef Ben McShane, whose CV runs to sous chef at Nineteen at The Star on the Gold Coast to Umu in London, and Franklin Heaney, whose experience includes front-of-house manager at Momofuku New York.

The drinks list keeps it tight with a spritz and a negroni for cocktails, Felons lager, Balter XPA, nine Australian whites, six reds, and a couple of rosés.

The clipped menu begins with starters such as green bean, white peach, almond and marjoram “salad”; squid with kohlrabi, bottarga and aioli; and an appealing deconstructed duck terrine with bean chutney and horseradish. There’s complimentary excellent housemade bread and butter, too.

Main course options are inventive and might include Murray cod with asparagus and cranberry hibiscus sauce; crispy-skinned roast chicken with carrot, pine nut and nori; or venison with beetroot, cherry and white onion. Rhubarb meringue pie with yoghurt sorbet is a solid conclusion to a small enterprise with big dreams.

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