Its chilli and Murray pink salt-dusted tofu creations deliver just the right amount of umami and spice, while also having a skin with an appealing balance of crunch and chew. 

Concubine doesn’t swamp you with endless menu choices, preferring to stick to mostly classics, often elevated by the use of local ingredients, including the seafood and beef. A Peking duck starter is tweaked by serving it in a steamed bao bun rather than a pancake, while vegetarian sang choi bao relied too heavily on bean sprouts. A rich beef cheek slow-braised with vegetables and black bean sauce is gelatinous and falls apart at the touch of a fork.

The Chinese influences are supplemented by a Thai influence in dishes such as the crunchy soft-shell crab with a crispy green apple salad with nahm jim dressing, as well as yellow and green curries.

For dessert, the black sticky rice that comes with ice cream and strawberries is a welcome collision of warmth and cold. A glitch in the system meant the early dishes were slow to arrive on this visit but Concubine’s service is usually at a level above many others in Chinatown. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.