Both a la carte and set menus reflect what’s fresh and best of the daily market haul. Dressed in dark timber, white walls and filled out by lively social chatter, it feels like you’re dining at your posh friend’s house.

Perch yourself at the bar, where you can sit and watch busy hands shake cocktails while chefs work meticulously across the back wall. The Euro-leaning spread may see crisp-skinned Murray cod bobbing in a saffron-spiked butter sauce dressed with sweet leeks and mussels.

For two people looking to share, the 1.2kg slow-roasted lamb shoulder with almonds and red peppers is a house favourite. A plate of roasted heirloom carrots dusted with baharat (Middle Eastern spice mix) on a bed of sheep’s milk yoghurt topped with pine nuts makes for a hearty side.

Like the fashion precinct it resides in, the Flinders Lane restaurant is constantly evolving without losing its sleek, laid-back and forever-classic feel.