The new restaurant is a homage to the original: white rough-rendered walls, chic whitepainted breeze blocks under the kitchen counter, terracotta wall lights, one-litre carafes of house wine. And the food is nothing short of exceptional – modern and comforting at once.

The original restaurant’s famed porchetta sandwich returns, appearing between two pizza halves smeared with mayonnaise and chilli, and cut into four handsome wedges fit for sharing. The pork itself is from free-roaming farm Taluca Park. It’s charred and light, blistered and fluffy; a perfect, perfect sandwich. The antipasti span Italy’s regional specialties like figs with creamy, curdy stracciatella, toasted almonds and spiced olive oil, and a lovely Neapolitan octopus salad covered in parsley leaves. Pizzas come out of the domed brick-oven beautifully puffy. A pre-fermented starter and a wet dough makes the result so light and extraordinarily thin.

Da Orazio is the kind of place where you can’t possibly order everything you need and want to try, so vow to return with more people as soon as possible.

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