Detour was an early adopter in offering a significant amount of quality plant-based dishes, rather than treating them as an afterthought. Now fossilised carrots with char siu peanut, dukkah and chai cannot be removed from the menu, nor coal-roasted broccoli, nor the smoked pumpkin with maple, mustard and pepitas.

It’s share plate-style dining and meat-lovers will want to add to the mix delicious gun-powdered wagyu brisket, slices of which are best bundled on top of a chunk of the accompanying warm flat bread with green tomato and a splodge of pepper aioli. Or if you’ve somehow missed it, a long-time favourite is Kentucky Fried Duck, which comes with slabs of  jalapeno cornbread and sour cream.

The drinks list is relatively concise, with an almost entirely Australian array of wines, craft beer, cocktails and spirits. Timber finishes and tables, steel beams and exposed brick combine with the action in the central open kitchen to create a warm, buzzing ambience, appropriate for a venue that aims to cater for everyone.

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