There is so much to like about Dexter – Preston’s newest, brightest and best-looking reason to venture north. Yes, it’s another burger/barbecue joint, but it tackles both with best-in-class class, with surprises at every turn. Such as: hot meat doughnuts. Yes, really. These little balls of fried fun come filled with a beef brisket mix before being rolled in paprika sugar and served three to a bag. They shouldn’t work, but do. Brilliantly.

A trio of good heads is behind this, their first venture, that’s proven a hit with locals since opening in August. Tom Peasnell and Adam Goldblatt are in the kitchen turning out a tight menu of meat and buns — while Tom’s brother Sam looks after the floor.

And those buns — not burgers — are great, with none better than the pig’s head; meat pulled from the cheeks, jowls and temples of a whole smoked pig’s head that’s then pressed, crumbed and fried. Served with pickles, pickled pineapple and a squirt of hot sauce, it’s as clever as it is delicious (a pulled pork version served with slaw is an almost equally tasty option for the less adventurous).

A changing roster of excellent steaks are keenly priced and served with bone marrow mash, excellent house pickles, slaw and a marrow trencher (charred sourdough with marrow butter) and provide another reason to smile, as do “cookies and milk” – three choc chip cookies hot from the oven served with milk ice cream – to end. A pickleback (a shot each of bourbon and pickle juice) sets the scene, while beers on tap from local brewer Hawkers up the road keeps the booze miles admirably low.

Dexter is all class and an excellent surprise. Just look for the X outside.

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