After opening in 2018 and shrugging off the ravages of Covid, the inner-city, modern Chinese eatery has settled into a sweet spot with an appealing, broad menu at reasonable prices, adept service, a massive drinks list and a room that still rocks an appealing vibe of pastel-coloured chairs and banquettes and plants that soften its heritage-listed marble, dark wood and high ceiling surrounds.

Perhaps begin with snapper sashimi, a bowl of crunchy school prawns with Sichuan pepper and chilli or delve into the dim sum line-up with marshmallow-soft steamed buns stuffed with tender, juicy, cumin-spiced lamb or scallop and prawn wontons with a vibrantly flavoured black vinegar and chilli sauce.

Crispy, roasted, moist pork belly with cracking and mustard-pickled wombok on the side is a winner, while the beef version of spicy Dan Dan noodles is also appealing. Dessert takes a quirky turn with passionfruit custard-stuffed Minion dumplings inspired by the film Despicable Me, although a mound of creamed rice pudding clad in thin banana slices and pecans, drizzled with caramel is a satisfying not-too-sweet alternative. Busy, fun, nailing it.

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