There are few restaurants in Melbourne that elicit such affection and genuine delight at the prospect of a visit as Donovan’s – the grand dame by the bay that’s been wooing and wowing diners for more than 20 years. So the tears were real when a fire last year almost destroyed this scene of countless thousands of celebrations as was the joy when it reopened. With Gail and Kevin Donovan back on the floor welcoming regulars and first timers with equally open arms, much of Melbourne felt the world had returned to its rightful axis.

The restaurant looks as it ever did, the fastidiously casual beach house still beautifully affected, the space as timeless as the view across bay and the ‘classics’ on the menu. For Donovan’s is a place where people come for $46 fish and chips, and $64 steak, and $50 seafood linguine and $23 glasses of Burgundy. Those memories don’t come cheap.

But those classics are equally artfully created by head chefs Adam Draper and Emma D’Alessandro as more bold technique-driven creations such as the vineyard snails that come studded around a wobbly toque of cheesy soufflé, the lamb medley, or chocolate indulgence dessert. Though most can’t go past the ridiculously decadent bombe alaska, which has been the go-to full stop to a meal here since forever. Service complements the unrushed, breezy beachhouse vibe, where renditions of “Happy Birthday” punctuate the hubbub with celebratory abandon. Donovan’s is a classic in the truest sense. May the celebrations continue.

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Tel: (03) 9534 8221